The deep
bellowing sounds of Maramures are projected into the moonlit sky. The
astoundingly beautiful natural amphitheatre of ‘Sus Pe Bradova’ in the hills
above the village of Barsana is sending messages from a concert fusing traditional
and contemporary music.
This
historic part of Transylvania is in insurgency. It is opposing the latest
campaign to reach these ancient hills; the contemporary erosion of the area’s
rural spirituality.
The Festival of the 63 villages’
mission is not only to promote but to protect and preserve the role of Maramures
as the beating heart of Romania’s peasant culture.
The
Romanian Emperor Trajan immortalised Maramures’ resistance to outside forces’
attempts to dilute its proud independence by carving into a stone column the
story of his adventures in the area – then known as Dacia- in the year 113 AD. That’s
how long the baton has been held by the residents of the 63 villages: they continue
to champion the way of life in this region, often referred to as ‘the greatest
garden on earth.’
In
experiencing the sounds and character of Maramures on a hillside deep in this
garden, I feel a new resistance to global urbanisation. Slow and tranquil, the
garden entices one’s soul to contemplate and reflect on life and purpose.
This
festival is sending powerful messages to our urban centres, the deep sounds of
Maramures emanating from these hills are calling to the senses. Senses that
make us, as a people, feel connected to nature and our duty never to forsake
its treasures.